Daytrippin' in Antwerpen

This past Saturday, we took a daytrip to Antwerp, Belgium. We had been considering an overnight to Brugges, but hotel prices and choices were getting us down until we realized Antwerp (where we hadn't been before) was close enough for an easy daytrip. Hooray! Belgian waffles, Belgian chocolate, Belgian beer...all within easy reach!
We arrived relatively early in the day and made the magnificent Our Lady's Cathedral (named for Mary, its patroness) our first stop. Markus and Jennifer enjoy visiting old cathedrals for the art and the architecture; Ellie enjoys them for the running space. She took particular pleasure in running up and down the main aisle for at least 15 laps. Fortunately, there were few other visitors that morning, so no one seemed to mind.


Our Lady's Cathedral has suffered repeated damage and plundering throughout its history, leaving relatively little of its glorious art intact. A careful restoration has been underway, but there seems to be little to restore. Most of the frescoes are gone, though small patches remain in odd places. The damaged walls have been scraped smooth and whitewashed in efforts at beautification. While it made us sad to realize how much has clearly been lost, modern efforts have provided a bright, airy space in what would otherwise be a dark grey interior.



When we left the cathedral an hour or so later, we went in search of a cafe on the main square. Before you say it, we know this was in error. Anyone who has traveled much in tourist Europe can tell you that the most beautiful spots for people watching and view-admiring are often claimed by high-price, low-quality venues. Having never been to Antwerp and relishing some rare winter sunshine, we nonetheless opted for a cafe with a view...and some of the nastiest coffee and sorriest excuses for Belgian waffles you can imagine. At least we had a warm, dry spot to feed Ellie her snack. She didn't mind at all. This stop was also the first of the day where we would pay to use the toilets. The collector in this establishment was an old woman who held open my stall door for me to enter and then stood outside the door and hummed tunes, presumably for my enjoyment. At least I got my 35 cents worth, right?
The cafe was across the square from the city hall. While there, we witnessed two wedding parties enter and exit. They really had a beautiful morning for photos!



As we walked around the old parts of town, we saw many Madonna and Child sculptures on the sides of buildings. I only took this one picture, but it would make an interesting project to collect photos of all the different sculptures around. We wonder how many there are. Bonus points to anyone who finds this out!



Our next cultural stop was the Rubenshuis, home of artist Peter Paul Rubens. The house is amazing! Ellie had opted for a nap in her stroller by this point, so Markus and I took turns viewing the interior while the other wandered with the stroller in the garden.




The circumstances caused us to make only a quick run-through of the buildings, but both of us agree that the Rubenshuis is a fabulous museum and well-worth another visit! If you discount the paintings and artwork, it is worth viewing the architecture and interior alone in such a well-preserved old Flemmish home. Of course, you really shouldn't discount the paintings, as they are all fantastic and worth a thorough perusal.

Not much left remains to report. After a delicious lunch at a nearby bistro (recommended by the cashier in the museum shop) and some tasty De Konnick beers, we wandered the city on foot in the afternoon drizzle (thus no photos). We wandered down to the Diamond District, which wasn't much to get excited about (very touristy, unattractive shops; most were closed anyway for Sabbath). Surely there must be a more attractive area for jewelry in the Diamond Center of the World! We just didn't find it. We DID, however, find the most fabulous chocolate shop in town! If this blog were scratch and sniff, you would understand Jennifer's joy (and peril) over this find.



We also found a nice little cafe for tea before we headed out, which was most appreciated given the cold, wet turn of the weather. Yes, the weather turned foul indeed, but we can't complain. All in all, we had a lovely day and it felt so great to get out and see something new!